These are used when the hair has been damaged by chemical or physical abuse and has started to appear limp due to loss of elasticity.
Restructurants are designed to penetrate the cortex in order to strengthen and repair the very inner part of the hair follicle.
If the hair has been badly damaged, it is important to seek advice from a properly qualified hairdresser.
Shampoos are important, but are very easy to choose because nearly all indicate the type of hair they are for. Shampoos that are labelled ‘pH balanced’ are designed to have the same pH as the oils in the hair (normally 4.5-5.5) and are designed for fragile, permed or coloured hair.
Medicated shampoos are pH 7.3, which is nearly neutral and are designed to be very gentle to the scalp. Your shampoo should be changed every now and then, as hair seems to develop a resistance to certain ingredients after a period of time.
Sometimes the hair can get congested with styling products, this is known as ‘product build-up‘. When this happens the hair cannot be efficiently conditioned, coloured or permed. Luckily, there are special shampoos available that remove the residue that causes product build-up. These are recognised as stripping, chelating or clarifying shampoos.
These are based on vegetable oils and are designed to give an intensive, deep nourishing treatment. They only need to be used occasionally, however this does depend on the condition of the hair.
Hot oil products are normally purchased as a one-off treatment and appear as a small transparent plastic tube filled with oil. They should be placed, unopened in a cup of hot water for about a minute, in order to warm the contents of the tube.
Once opened the oil should be applied to towel dry hair, although it is not important for the hair to be washed. After the oil has been well massaged into the hair and scalp, it should be left for around 3 minutes.
It is very important to use a certain type of conditioner on chemically treated hair, especially if a colour or perm has just been added. After-colour conditioners coat the porous areas of the hair with a protective film, which helps prevent the colour leaching out. Conditioners that are designed for permed hair help stabilise the follicles so that bounce and elasticity is maintained.
Restructurants are used when the hair has been damaged by over-use of chemicals. They are designed to penetrate the cortex in order to strengthen and repair the very inner part of the hair follicle. If the hair has been badly damaged, it is important to seek advice from a properly qualified hairdresser.
As the name suggests, leave-in conditioners are designed to be applied to the hair and left on it, so no rinsing is needed. They help retain moisture and are particularly useful at reducing static in fine hair, without causing ‘conditioner overload’ where the hair gets too heavy and goes limp.
Leave-in conditioners are easy to use and are effective at protecting hair from the damage due to heat styling. They should be applied to wet hair after shampooing and are meant for everday use.
Conditioning sprays are a type of leave-in conditioner that are specifically designed to protect the hair from damage and are used prior to any styling that involves heat. Sprays are also very effective at reducing static electricity on flyaway hair.
Intensive conditioners are used on hair that is in poor condition when it is frizzy, spilt, very dry or difficult to manage. It helps the hair retain its natural moisture balance and replenishes areas that need extra support.
These conditioners are thoroughly worked through the hair and left on for up to 5 minutes to allow it to fully penetrate the hair cuticles. After this the hair and scalp should be well rinsed to remove any excess residue from the conditioner.
Alternatively, a home-made intensive conditioner can be used. Firstly, mix 15 ml (tablespoon) of olive with the same quantity of wheatgerm oil and gently warm it up. Apply to the hair and scalp and wrap a warm towel around the head and leave for around 10 minutes.
Basic conditioners are the most commonly used products for day to day hair care. They are applied after washing and left on for a few minutes so that the ingredients can penetrate the newly washed wet hair. They can then be rinsed off with warm water or a rinsing solution. The result is hair that has been coated with a thin film, which smooths down the hair cuticle and makes it shiny and easy to manage.
There was once a time when hair could be kept in good condition from simply washing it 2-3 times per week. Things have changed dramatically since people have started ‘messing’ around with the hair’s natural balance by perming, colouring and heat-styling it. They also bombard it with dozens of different gels, mousses and hairsprays.
